Day 4 Moscow
I don't really feel like doing anything today. It's raining for the the 5th day in a row and I just feel like relaxing.
I struggle to laze about in bed so I got up and sat in the common room for a while trying to motivate myself to do something. Instead I read a book and surfed the Internet for a while.
Eventually I decided to go out and do a tourist thing but by the time I'd gotten outside and started walking towards the metro station I had decided that I really really didn't want to do anything.
So I stopped for a coffee at my local coffee shop then went for brunch at a Georgian restaurant not far from the hostel. The restaurant was absolutely beautiful. An old brick building with a gorgeous interior and a very warm and cozy feeling.
Surprisingly I was the only customer but it was Sunday and there really weren't a lot of people around the area in general. They had a few bookings but not until later in the day. I've never eaten Georgian food before so I didn't really know what to expect. Their specialty seemed to be something called Khinkhali so I talked to the waitress and we came up with a strategy.
I ordered 6 of the Khinkhali and some pickled vegetables as a side and a glass of dry red Georgian wine.
Khinkhali turned out to basically be big dumplings with a soup in the middle (kind of like xiao long bao). I had almost a complete spread of the menu. They were absolutely delicious. The vegetarian ones in particular (spinach and mushroom) were so full of flavour. I feel that maybe I shouldn't have gone with the pickled vegetables because while they were tasty I was starting to get a bit sick of them towards the end of the plate.
While the meal cost me more than I had been expecting to spend I do not regret it. I will happily eat Georgian food anytime in the future.
After the meal I was alllllllmost ready to go do something but again just couldn't be arsed. So I went back to the hostel and chilled out for a while. The popular thing to play on the TV seems to be a Russian travel show on YouTube. They have a guy and a girl who travel to a particular destination. They toss a coin and one of them goes luxury while the other goes budget and they compare their experiences. Actually looks like a pretty good show and I was reasonably entertained by it even though I couldn't understand a word they said (except when they were talking English to some staff member at a hotel).
I chilled out at the hostel for a while then I had to get ready for THE OPERA. I'm going to an opera at the BOLSHOI THEATRE tonight! Woo! Traditionally I think you're supposed to see ballet at the Bolshoi but I prefer opera and I saw a ballet at Yekaterinburg a few days ago.
I put on my very best clothes (read: a clean black polo shirt, jeans and hiking boots) and head towards the theatre.
On the way I stop at a place called Yeliseev's Food Hall (Yeliseevskiy Gastronom) which is the fanciest supermarket I've ever seen. Some dude wanted to create a really top-class grocery shopping experience so he got this building and tarted it up and stuck a grocery store in there. Pretty nice place! I picked up a couple of snacks in there for dinner on the way to the theatre.
Down the hill and I made it to the Bolshoi. What a spectacular building! The outside is big and while with giant pillars and a fantastic statue on the top. Inside are a bunch of sumptuous rooms surrounding the theatre.
I had some help from a couple of the attendants to find my way to my seat and it turns out I have a fantastic seat in the front row of the dress circle (first balcony) right in front of the stage. I'm actually in a box with 5 other people and we have our own entrance and a couch at the back (no doubt for our servants to sit on).
The theatre is amazing. It's so beautiful! Reds and golds and candelabras and a big chandelier. It's just awesome and it's a spectacular place to watch a show.
I am a bit underdressed and I do get a few dirty looks from some older Russians who have clearly dressed in their finest to come to the Opera (apparently Russians really like to doll themselves up when they go out) but they can get stuffed. I bet I enjoy it more than them.
And the lady next to me in the box was a bit annoying. She was pretty fat and kept bumping into me as she shifted around then harrumphing as if it was my fault she couldn't keep still.
The opera I'm seeing is called "The Maid of Pskov" and there is a synopsis here: http://www.bolshoi.ru/en/performances/2075/libretto/
I've not heard of it before but that's not surprising given it's a very Russia-specific storyline. The show was pretty good and I did enjoy it. It started a bit slowly but finished really strongly with some great songs.
I was a little concerned at the start as 90% of the stage was taken up by the orchestra and choir and the singers didn't come out until after a couple of numbers by the orchestra. I thought I'd accidentally wandered into a chamber music recital! There didn't seem to be any room for the singers to do their thing. Most of the opera I've seen has been more like a play where the stage has a set, the singers are in costume and the orchestra is hidden out of sight in the pit or behind the stage like the peasants they are (just kidding Amy!).
This one was different though. There were simply 4 microphones in front of the orchestra and the singers did not do any acting or wear any costumes. They simply wore formal wear (evening gowns or a tuxedo depending on gender) and walked on and off the stage when appropriated based on who was singing. Very understated and it was interesting ... almost like they were giving a concert. I don't think it's better or worse but it's definitely a different style.
I had a great time and I'd love to go back and see another show there sometime. If you ever get the opportunity to see a show there take it. It's worth it just to sit in the theatre for a couple of hours and soak up all the glamour.
Today's my last day in Moscow so instead of getting the metro back I went for a last walk through Red Square and past all the big attractions. I've quite enjoyed Moscow and it will be a shame not to walk past St Basil's again of a morning. Moscow is a big, chaotic and ever changing city. There's a lot of money and I'm sure a lot of poverty there but it seems to be full of life and full of very passionate people. I think 4 days was enough for me though. I'm not sure I would want to do any more on a visit.
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